house will not enter into it, nor come to that will Mother except in the sense
of Mother Russia, a phrase used by many older Russians, though perhaps not so
much the younger generation.
entered our vocabularies, I spent some weeks in Russia as a USAID volunteer.
shortly to return to its pre-communist identity of St. Petersburg, on the edge
of the Nyeva river.
roughly the same latitude as Anchorage, Alaska, that’s not the greatest timing.
that we should take a quick overnight trip to their supplier in Helsinki,
Finland. We meant me, Afanasiy and
his second in command Nikoail, and the security manager Vladimir.
Communism disintegrated, the Mafia and miscellaneous other villains filled in
every nook and cranny of the power vacuum. The ex-Soviet bloc was a dangerous
place and all businesses had so-called Security Guards at every door, all armed
with vicious-looking weapons held ever at the ready.
sometimes referred sardonically to Vladimir as Vlad, but only behind his back.
I wished he had never done so because it had caused me to make a mental
connection with a certain unlovely historical persona.
watery country with lots of trees to obscure any view there might be.
Transportation
rise to things like Company Cars. The next evening we gathered, after work,
around Afanasiy’s old … what? I’m not sure what it was though I am sure about
the “old.” Any logo denoting its make had long since disappeared from a car
body of Swiss cheese.
more holes than metal, and what metal remained was dented and rusted.
Leningrad at the time, but on our way Nikolai began telling Trabant jokes so
maybe that was it.
trunk heater?
when you’re pushing it.
happens if you apply rust remover to a Trabant?
disappears.
drove and Vladimir, quite literally, rode shotgun, or probably more correctly,
rode AK 47.
road below through a large hole between my feet and another one beside my knee.
I have to say they gave me the best spot, though, as Nikol essentially had to
prop his knees against the seat in front to stop his feet falling out of the
car all together.
dirty slush splashing constantly onto our legs.
reached the outskirts of the city when sirens wailed behind us and Afanasiy
pulled over, plunging us into a deep ditch beside the road. He struggled out
into the slush, and even in the dim light outside I saw a wad of money changing
hands.
of the city, a bit like a toll road you might say. You know you’ll be accused
of speeding and you know just how much it takes to make this imagined
infraction disappear.
engine added to the fact that I was in a very short time frozen solid with my
legs encased in an oozing mess of grimy icy slush, made success seem unlikely.
landlady had informed me that this was the most dangerous highway in Russia,
and I imagine it has some pretty steep competition as all Russian drivers treat
their vehicles like bumper cars at the fair.
Russian drivers and dreadful Russian weather and dreadful Russian roads, and a
two-lane highway serving an endless stream of trucks ancient and modern between
the nearest point in the East and a newly accessible West.
this was the most notorious stretch of highway in the world for murders and hijackings.
ring to it, but rather we strained and groaned and choked our way along the
Gulf of Finland, crossing endless little rivers and streams barely moving for the
ice, and heading deeper into deep dark coniferous forests.
driving, one becoming maudlin beside me, and one carelessly fingering the
trigger of an assault rifle. And was the safety catch on, or did they even have such things, I wondered, and wished
I hadn’t.
the first one each day at work around eight in the morning and continued
steadily thereafter.
had been among the first troops on the ground after the Chernobyl disaster. No
one had told them anything; they had no protective clothing.
Afanasiy began to sing.
entertainment and they seemed to be in a kind of fast-forward mode through it.
that time in the 60’s which was fine with me, I’m kind of stuck there too!
Beatles hits, and sang happily, if soggilly, through the forests.
in Russia and had lost all hope of dignity, when Afanasyi shouted above various
car/road/weather noises,
some kind of truck stop of the kind I had been expecting to see, but had not,
every few minutes since we had left the city.
dirty snow, and came to a halt.
backs to me, which caused them to be highlighted by the endless stream of passing
headlights.
up, Afanasyi faced the car and, with a courtly bow and a gesture towards the
trees, yelled,
anyway so, so what?”
thankfully behind a reasonably sturdy tree trunk and ignored the snow, and the
wind, and the endless flow of passing headlights.
from the trunk and put it over the hole in the floor, rested my feet on it and
managed a much more comfortable and considerably drier ride as we progressed.
Checks
trees.
those Cold War movies. Really! We’ve all seen them!
clearing, all scrub and snow;
crossings, most just a little shack with a metal arm across the road where a
silent uniform took your passport, looked suspiciously at it and you, grunted,
and returned it.
examined in detail. This took a cold miserable hour. We had to empty the car of
every unattached item but the luggage itself was not examined; this apparently
was to be the responsibility of another guard post.
ahead. Another dreary corrugated metal shed.
metal table.
counted rapidly with little interest, though the amount was entered solemnly
onto a form I was required to sign.
and barely searched.
brought in by Afanasyi and I stopped breathing.
hundred- and thousand-dollar bills.
assault rifles swinging lazily in our direction, the triggers lightly caressed
by fingers controlled, or not, by doubtlessly vodka-sodden brains.
their direction, in similar fashion.
to pass out or throw up or both.
knew it.
or all of the four armed men in the hut, I would be shot on sight by the Mafia
thugs I just knew were about to burst through the door.
mounds of bills on the table and counted.
bundle.
carelessly back in the trunk, and we continued into Finland. The only thing we
lost, a great relief to me, was Vladimir’s rifle, which he left at the guard
hut where he would retrieve it on the return journey. He could not take it
across the border.
lots of questions.
manner.
business.
money.
worthless, it had to be German deutschmarks, U.S. dollars, or British pounds.
most dangerous road?
but I choose to believe that they have survived.
gets you from St. Petersburg to Helsinki in just over two hours, and that
includes what are apparently still lengthy checks at the border.
when I was there, and that we had ridden it that night instead of spending
eight hours of physical and mental anguish on the most dangerous highway in the
world?
a story about a two-hour train ride through which I sleep, and nothing worth
recounting ever happens?
About the Author
was born and raised in England. After graduation from college there, I moved to
the U.S. and, having discovered Colorado, never left. I have lived in the
Denver-Boulder area since 1965, working for 30 years at IBM. I married, raised
four stepchildren, then got divorced after finally, in my forties, accepting
myself as a lesbian. I have now been with my wonderful partner Betsy for 25
years.